Monday, May 30, 2016
Handy Bench Hooks
For some tasks at the workbench, securing a workpiece with clamps or vises just doesn't work. This simple jig keeps workpieces in place and lets you re-position material easily. Using two or more of these allows me to use my jigsaw or circular saw right on the workbench. Made from scrap 2x4s. They're so handy, I put screw eyes on each jig and hooked them right to my workbench.
Tuesday, November 3, 2015
Drill Press Table
The stock metal table that came with my drill press is too small - it doesn't provide a lot of support for long pieces. So I made a large table. I built it from two layers of 3/4" plywood.
The lower piece is one single piece (23" x 11-1/4"), while the upper layer is made up of three pieces. The two outer pieces are glued to the lower layer to create a thick, solid work surface. I cut 3/4" x 3/8" dadoes and installed a pair of T-tracks for a fence and hold-downs. The center piece of the top layer is a removable insert which rests between the two outer pieces. Its used to back up the workpiece to prevent tearout when the bit drills through, and can also be replaced when it gets chewed up. I also cut out a notch in the back corner of the table to provide clearance for the table lift crank.
Attaching and removing the table is quick and easy. Its secured by two studded knobs and washers that fit into threaded inserts installed in the underside of the table.
The lower piece is one single piece (23" x 11-1/4"), while the upper layer is made up of three pieces. The two outer pieces are glued to the lower layer to create a thick, solid work surface. I cut 3/4" x 3/8" dadoes and installed a pair of T-tracks for a fence and hold-downs. The center piece of the top layer is a removable insert which rests between the two outer pieces. Its used to back up the workpiece to prevent tearout when the bit drills through, and can also be replaced when it gets chewed up. I also cut out a notch in the back corner of the table to provide clearance for the table lift crank.
Attaching and removing the table is quick and easy. Its secured by two studded knobs and washers that fit into threaded inserts installed in the underside of the table.
Sunday, August 30, 2015
Rolling Lumber Storage Cart
This cart solves much of my wood storage problems. After building it, I discovered it holds much more wood than I thought - and it takes up little space. Built from 3/4" plywood, it measures 36" wide by 24" deep by 32" high. I put casters on it to easily wheel it around the garage.
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Outdoor Buffet/Serving Table
This sturdy serving table is quite useful next to the BBQ. I found a similar table at an international big box store selling it for $1,800 CAD! It seemed simple enough to makeSo I went to the local lumber mill (ottawacedar.com), and bought some cedar.
Assembly - frame: I used pocket hole joinery. I fastened the 2x4s to the 4x4 posts with 2-1/2" screws. The top is made up of one 1" x 10" between two 1" x 8" boards joined together. I cut each board to 50″ and made staggered pocket holes on the underside. I applied glue and screwed them together one by one with 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws. To assemble the bottom shelf, I used 1-1/4" brad nails. I added a 1"×2" to the inner sides of the 1"×4" on the bottom rail to nail the 1"×3" slats into. I also cut a 1"×3" to go across the bottom to support the slats.
Dimensions - the buffet table is 50" wide x 24" deep x 36" tall. The legs are 4"x4"x36". There is a 24" gap between the bottom and top shelves, to allow for easy storage. I bought (Delta) casters from Lee Valley Tools, but I'm not sure I'll use them.
Material:
Assembly - frame: I used pocket hole joinery. I fastened the 2x4s to the 4x4 posts with 2-1/2" screws. The top is made up of one 1" x 10" between two 1" x 8" boards joined together. I cut each board to 50″ and made staggered pocket holes on the underside. I applied glue and screwed them together one by one with 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws. To assemble the bottom shelf, I used 1-1/4" brad nails. I added a 1"×2" to the inner sides of the 1"×4" on the bottom rail to nail the 1"×3" slats into. I also cut a 1"×3" to go across the bottom to support the slats.
Dimensions - the buffet table is 50" wide x 24" deep x 36" tall. The legs are 4"x4"x36". There is a 24" gap between the bottom and top shelves, to allow for easy storage. I bought (Delta) casters from Lee Valley Tools, but I'm not sure I'll use them.
Material:
- 4 - 4x4x4'
- 2 - 2x4x8'
- 2 - 1x4x8'
- 2 - 1x8x5'
- 1 - 1x10x5'
- 4 - 1x3x8'
- 1 - 1x2x8'
- 4 - 2" (50mm) diameter plate-mounted casters (optional)
- Hooks and bottle opener
- Minwax Gel Stain (Aged Oak)
- Old Masters Exterior Spar-Urethane (satin)
- Sico Paint (off-white)
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| Pocket Holes |
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| Glue up of Top Shelf - 50"x24" x 1" thick |
Monday, December 29, 2014
Equestrian Schooling Jump Standards with Poles
These are equestrian oxer jumps, i.e. a set of horse jumps that I build. Standards are the posts used for setting up the jumps.The standards are made of premium 4x4 PT lumber. The poles are octogonal, made from rough cut 4x4x8' cedar or PT lumber. They are 3.5" in diameter. The oxer set includes:
- 4 schooling jump standards; 4’ tall; pin holes every 3” starting at 15"
- 4 jump cups
- three 8' poles
Monday, April 28, 2014
A Harvest Table for the backyard
My wife and I saw a Teak outdoor Harvest table at a local hardware store. We loved it, but couldn't justify paying $800 CAD for it. So I made one just like it. Instead of Teak, I used western red cedar which I purchased from Rona. It sits 8 and looks great in our backyard.
| The stain is semi-transparent Walnut-Brown from Sico |
| Finished product! |
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Adjustable height side shelf for my mobile workbench
I added an adjustable-height side shelf to my mobile workshop. It's held in place with sturdy 14" steel brackets from Lee Valley Tools that fit into 24" heavy-duty double-slotted standards, also from Lee Valley Tools. I adapted the shelf to fit my miter saw and added brackets to support workpieces. I can also set the shelf even with the workbench worktop to create a large assembly table.
The shelf is 5' long (the length of the worktop) by 16" wide. I used 3/4" plywood for the shelf. To stiffen up the shelf, I screwed and glued a 2x4 between the brackets on the underside of the shelf.
I also adapted the brackets so the shelf hangs from the workbench when not in use.
The shelf is 5' long (the length of the worktop) by 16" wide. I used 3/4" plywood for the shelf. To stiffen up the shelf, I screwed and glued a 2x4 between the brackets on the underside of the shelf.
I also adapted the brackets so the shelf hangs from the workbench when not in use.
Monday, March 10, 2014
A small addition to my workbench
If you have a small workspace like me, you'll love this fold out shelf for your portable table saw. When not in use, it folds down neatly tucked away, taking up less than 2 inches. When needed, I simply pop it open (finger tip release), and place my table saw on the 3/4" plywood shelf. My workbench now can be used as an outfeed table.
I purchased a pair of 16" 4-Position folding brackets from Lee Valley Tools. These are incredibly strong brackets, with a center load capacity of 200 kg/440 lb per pair. For added support and stability, I added at 2x3 drop-down leg to the bottom of the shelf.
I purchased a pair of 16" 4-Position folding brackets from Lee Valley Tools. These are incredibly strong brackets, with a center load capacity of 200 kg/440 lb per pair. For added support and stability, I added at 2x3 drop-down leg to the bottom of the shelf.
Heavy Duty Folding Sawhorses
For under $40, I made this great pair of sturdy sawhorses. When opened, there's a handy shelf for your tools. When folded up, they take up no more than 6", slim enough to fit anywhere in the garage. Portability is another great feature of these sawhorses, and they are as heavy duty as they come.
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